Thursday, July 28, 2011

Easter 2011: McCall's 6759 and the mysterious bodice wrinkle

You've already seen my Easter dress, with the mysterious horizontal bodice wrinkle. The pattern is McCall's 6759 from 1963. I love the curved seams! The bow, not so much.

Yes, my slip is hanging out. It's because my vintage bias-cut slip is uneven.  Really! The hem on the dress is fine! ...except for the massive wrinkles across the bust


As you'll recall, I made my dress and my sister's dress for Easter. Even though I had to hustle to get it done, I took the time to do some nice details. I made a muslin of the bodice. The facings are interfaced and lined for a clean finish. I used dressmaker's tracing paper to transfer the curves for the bodice so I could make perfectly lapped seams. I even took a few photos during the process! There's an inside belt, lingerie straps (with tiny little snaps) at the shoulders, and a custom label. (More about the lovely label soon.) Hell, I even made a thread loop for a belt carrier in the back and a hidden snap to keep the buckle centered in front!



This should have been my best project ever. But no, somehow I managed to completely whiff on the bodice. I did a muslin! It was fine with my usual tweaks. It seemed fine in the fittings. Here's a crappy cell-phone-in-the-mirror pic for proof:

But when I actually wore it for Easter, the shoulders moved forward or the bust moved up or something, and I had a giant horizontal wrinkle across the chest. (That's in addition to all the usual wrinkles that are expected with linen.)


Now I want to make it again just to see what the hell went wrong. I've actually dreamed this dress in a lightweight denim with contrasting topstitching on the seams...and maybe a different skirt. With this style of skirt I always feel a little like it's saying "Here is my crotch, right here!" Maybe that's just me. Never mind.

7 comments:

carol said...

Love all the little details. Is the wrinkle where the interfacing is??? It looks like it.

countrygirlcouture said...

Did you wear a different bra maybe? I dunno. The rest of the dress looked great! LOL @ the arrow pointing to your crotch...I'd never thought of that before, but now that you mention it...

debbie said...

I love the dress wrinkle or no wrinkle.

I'm thinking the same as Carol. It looks like it's positioned about where the facing ends. Maybe the interfacing is sticking, for lack of a better word, to the fabric and causing the wrinkle.

KibitzKnitz said...

I was going to say the interfacing as well. I wonder if it's 'heavy' enough to drag forward a bit and will naturally fold there.

Hatty said...

I think it's just a couple of cm too tight from armpit to armpit, or on the upper bust - it's trying to creep upwards, isn't it?

milly said...

that is so nice u r talented!!

petunia said...

It's a beautiful green and the style and color are both nice on you. Like Hattie, I think the bodice problem is lack of ease. The bodice is too tight and it is more than long enough . A skintight fit is commonplace nowadays, it's why we use knits. The pattern illustration shows the fit that was commonplace in 1963. If you are interested in authenticity, be sure and extend the shoulder in your next version.