I love the idea of Simplicity 8125. It's an adorable 1960's empire-waist update of the classic Butterick Walk-Away Dress (Butterick 4790). It's clever. It's forgiving on my post-baby body. It's quick and easy to make, and requires only fabric, thread and a little bit of ribbon for the hidden back ties - no interfacing, bias tape, buttons or zippers. And it's reversible! You just cut out the pieces, sew the front darts, match the two layers up and sew all the way around, leaving a little opening to turn them right side out. Even with a one-month old baby hanging on me all day and night I managed to make it in just a week or two. That's pretty quick for me!The dress was absolutely adorable on my dressform. The two hidden ties (at the underarm and hip) held the front of the dress in a lovely skimming A-line shape on Barbie. The wide ties give the bust a little definition while letting the back piece hang smoothly from the mid-back, skimming over the big ol' butt. On the dressform I was a little concerned about the really deep armhole. Even when the front and back pieces were tied tightly at the bust, the armhole created by the overlapped pieces looked like it would be deep enough to show an inch or two of bra under the arm.
The trouble began when I wore the dress. Before I was even done with the picture-taking, the dress was starting to shift around. The deep scoop neck allows the shoulders to shift from side to side. The under-bust ties kept the sides of the dress closed, but didn't prevent the back or front from riding up. I had it tied on pretty snugly, and it still didn't stay put. In fact I had the ties tight tight enough that when I sat down, one of the hip ties ripped right out of the seam. I did a quick repair job and headed out for a lovely Pampered Chef party hosted by my friend *A*. Pampered Chef parties wait for no one!
So my first (second? third?) clue that the dress was a disaster is that no one at the party asked me about it or commented on it (except *A*, who knew I was wearing one of my experiments). I mean really, if someone showed up in this weird orange floral dress at a gathering of crop pants, flip flops and T-shirts, wouldn't you wonder what's up? No one had the nerve to ask about it, so I'm pretty sure I was in the realm of "If you don't have something nice to say...". It's a good thing this is my Summer of Wearing What I Damn Well Please or I might have been a little self-conscious.
The real trouble with the dress began when I had to sit down. The deep armholes allowed the shoulders to pop up and then flop forward, gaping at the neckline. Then when I stood up the back of the dress stayed pulled forward, making the back hemline higher than the front. I spent the whole evening with various parts of my bra showing, tugging at the dress to get it back to where it belonged. So annoying!
This dress is bad enough that it must evolve or perish. I still like the fabric combination very much. I'm going to do a little creative chopping to try to make an empire-waist dress that works, if I can make the armhole and bust fit snugly enough. If that doesn't work I'll default to a simple skirt so I can still enjoy the fabric.
So my first (second? third?) clue that the dress was a disaster is that no one at the party asked me about it or commented on it (except *A*, who knew I was wearing one of my experiments). I mean really, if someone showed up in this weird orange floral dress at a gathering of crop pants, flip flops and T-shirts, wouldn't you wonder what's up? No one had the nerve to ask about it, so I'm pretty sure I was in the realm of "If you don't have something nice to say...". It's a good thing this is my Summer of Wearing What I Damn Well Please or I might have been a little self-conscious.
The real trouble with the dress began when I had to sit down. The deep armholes allowed the shoulders to pop up and then flop forward, gaping at the neckline. Then when I stood up the back of the dress stayed pulled forward, making the back hemline higher than the front. I spent the whole evening with various parts of my bra showing, tugging at the dress to get it back to where it belonged. So annoying!
This dress is bad enough that it must evolve or perish. I still like the fabric combination very much. I'm going to do a little creative chopping to try to make an empire-waist dress that works, if I can make the armhole and bust fit snugly enough. If that doesn't work I'll default to a simple skirt so I can still enjoy the fabric.
This picture is from a couple of weeks ago, when Henry was about one month old. I can't believe he's already six weeks old! I'm halfway through my maternity leave!


10 comments so far. Please leave one!:
I wonder if adding a tie between the back straps would help at all? Should stop some of the gaping issue, and would be in line with the style of the dress. Also, it looks like the back baloons a little which is possibly what's causing some of the problems.. I'd run a few lines of shirring just under the shoulder blades to help it behave, but this would alter the look of the dress quite a bit, so you may not want to. Good luck! It's a lovely fabric :)
I have a similar pattern S5449, I think, it's on the wiki, that has a regular waistline, no circle skirt, just flared, and ties in back, the front does have hook/eye to keep it closed. I have not tried it yet. Maybe try something to keep the underlayer closed in the back, see how that works.
I have this same pattern and I'm glad you posted this review because it will save me the disappointment.
I love what you said about knowing it was a disaster because no one asked about it. I know exactly what you mean!
Oh no! Cute pattern and fabric combo.
Could you open it up and take off an inch or so at the shoulders? That would help bring it up under the arm and help with the sliding around on your shoulders by snugging it up through the whole area. The only prob I see is that it would raise the position of the underbust tie and shorten the dress a bit. You could try it by basting the shoulders from the right side and wearing it to see if it alleviates some of the wearabilty probs.
Somebody else recently had this on their to-do list also, unfortunately I can't remember who!
Debbie
Shame about the wearability problems. You don't notice from the photograph. It may be the side seam at the underarm that is too loose. You could remove the facing and take the garment in slightly. It is interesting the way these old patterns suddenly have new currency.
Beautiful baby -- beautiful family!!!
Thanks so much for the picture.
Regards,
Trudy
www.sewingwithtrudy.blogspot.com
Can I join you in the Summer of Wearing What I Damn Well Please?
Oh, did this bring back memories.
I made this dress almost 40 years
ago and had the same problems with
it. I used a crepe which wouldn't
hang properly on me and gaped
everywhere. It only looked good
on paper!
Adorable baby.
Your execution and fabric choices were lovely! Sorry to hear the dress was a disappointment. I think people complain that the walk-away dress also rides up in the front or back. Somewhere on the internet, I once read about how to fix the walk-away dress, so maybe that would help this dress, too. Good luck!
I love the fabric combo.
I'm wearing a shirt today that NO one has commented on. Maybe it so super cool that people are too stunned to comment? Or ... maybe my experimentation in adding rouching into a pattern that didn't have it kind of went bad.
Awesome family photo!
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